Gamefisher outboard serial numbers

Where would you find a serial number on a Gamefisher 7. Thread starter Wakko Start date Jul 21, Wakko Seaman Apprentice. Joined Jul 16, Messages Looking to purchase this outboard and I want to know who made it first. Anything else I should check for that's Gamefisher specific? MahtyMaht Chief Petty Officer. Joined Apr 7, Messages Re: Where would you find a serial number on a Gamefisher 7.

You don't care about the serial number, you want the model number. Pop the shroud off that puppy, and look at the bottom surface of the engine compartment, starbord side, you'll see a sticker with a model number beginning with Commercial If you have a commercial model refer to the Evinrude commercial serial number year chart located here.

With Yamaha model numbers, the last letter indicates the year. Note: Begining in Yamaha stopped including the year information in the model number. The production date can be found on the transom bracket of post motors. With Suzuki model numbers, the last letter indicates the year.

Nothing in the Chrysler Outboard engine model numbers or serial numbers provides year information. Refer to the Chrysler serial number year chart located here.

Refer to the Force serial number year chart located here. Gamefisher 1. Read Description B4 Sears Gamefisher Outboard Model Sears Tanaka Gamefisher 1. Sears Game Fisher 9. Sears Gamefisher 9. Lots Jc. They later came out with their own cowlings and paint scheme to match the Bayliner branding. When Brunswick purchased Bayliner, they inherited these Force outboards, probably unwanted, and mostly obsolete, engines came with the deal.

However Mercury took advantage of the opportunity and ended up with low cost Force engines to factory rig their boats, perhaps an idea of ahead of it's time. I understand, they were actually pretty good, but not really hot performers and with a second tier, "cheapout" image for the owners. The situation spooked Yamaha and OMC enough that they downgraded their own lines, removing oil injection and other items, so they, too, would have a second tier line.

Yamaha had a designation for theirs also. As clean technology became mandated, this engine had to die, so Mercury dumped it in favor of putting Merc engines on Bayliners, and all their other brands also.

The Force name later turned into the Mariner brand outboards which was introduced in Australia sometime in the early 70's and in the United States in Points are set at. These points units were not the most thought out unit as setting them had some challenges and is the wiring screw had another nut to hold the block in place with a second nut to secure the wires, it could be easier. In setting the points, I have found it easiest to reinstall the flywheel nut and screw it down to where it stops on the crankshaft, form here you can use a wrench on the nut and rotate the crankshaft to where the widest part of the cam is in contact with the point rub bar.

And the critical point is when the points break governed by the ramp up to the high spot. Later motors from about on used electronic ignition. Here, if for some reason you need to find Top Dead Center TDC it may be easiest to use the old motorcycle method of pulling the spark plug and running a rod down inside the cylinder, pull it over SLOWLY and watch the rod move out, stopping it at the highest point.

However there is really no need to worry as there is not much you can do as to timing on these anyway, other than carburetor cam arm roller positioning. Usually in numbering cylinders, the top one would be number ONE. Flywheel ; One odd thing here is that there are no provisions for using a standard 3 bolt flywheel puller.

My method of pulling these flywheels is to back the nut off until the top is just above the threads protecting them , using a medium heavy hammer soft brass preferred , wrap your arm around the flywheel, putting a lifting strain on the motor and SHARPLY RAP this nut.

Usually this will jar the flywheel loose. There are three detents in the approximate locations, as seen in the photo below which the stamped sheet-metal emergency rope starter plate nestles into to secure this plate after the flywheel nut is tightened down on top of the plate.

Carburetor ; These were rather simple carburetors. The internal throat is. The one bad thing is getting it off the manifold. The RH nut has not enough room between the carburetor body and the nut to get a standard wrench on unless it has a short handle.

The float bowl needle seat is unique in that it is a green Neoprene ring held in the hole by one loop "clip" of a coil spring. The needle then is just stainless and has a retracting clip. The float is a soldered brass float. There is a throttle arm roller that is attached by a eccentric bolt, which is used to adjust the link and sync. The choke is simple and attached to the rod by a spring clip similar to that used by the automotive industry.

On the choke plate of the carburetor, it has 3 slight notches that individually engage in a small short standup coil spring that retains the choke in the closest position. There is no air breather on this carburetor.

It will be a challenge to clean this carburetor and be able to REUSE the float rubber bowl ring seal. This seal appears very slightly smaller diameter, so needs to be warmed up in the sun or in HOT WATER or soaked in gasoline, stretch it enough to allow it to stay in the groove in the carburetor's bowl base long enough to install the bowl. Then it has to be pretty tightly fitting on the outer rim otherwise it may leak. So trial and error may be the order of the day when using this seal.

The problem is the float bowl has only a single thickness of the thin aluminum bowl to seal against the gasket, even a very slight miss-alignment of the gasket can allow fuel to leak out.

Note that this bowl has a flat on one side of the bottom. This flat goes on the pivot pin inlet side of the carb body, but not at 90 degrees, as it needs to be aligned with the float hinge base. Reed Valves ; There are a single set of 2 reeds mounted in a reed plate between the manifold and the front of the block. Replacement fuel pumps appear to not be available, but parts are to rebuild one.

These are a pretty basic diaphragm fuel pump so no surprises when you tear it apart. The fuel line has a inline small plastic fuel filter, there is another identical one behind the pump and the carburetor. The quick disconnect fuel line is similar to the industrial type oil line connectors and is known as the Chrysler type. Recoil Starter ; Here is a weird spring system that was carried over from the Chrysler design but only existed for 3 years under the Force name. A simple and unique system for the spindle gear to be raised and engage the flywheel is a angled slot in the gear that a cross-pin rides in very similar to the small hp OMCs up to the mid s.

As the starter rope is pulled, the gear slides upward on this cross-pin, engaging the flywheel gear. Replacing this rope itself can be a challenge, but explained below. Problems Encountered ; This motor when I got it, had the starter rope frayed badly and worn in two, so no idea of just how it was installed.

In the repairs of getting it going, I discovered that a small plastic Vee pulley that is attached to a casting boss on the front of the manifold was a rope guide to facilitate a 90 degree change in the direction the rope came off the spool to going out the front cowling.